January 6

Kel-Tec KSG – Reloaded

Writing blogs in bulk started out as a pretty solid effort with 3 a day seeming to be easy. As I’ve gone on with this, I’ve starting making the mistake of leaving partially finished posts in the drafts. Having unfinished drafts is a slippery slope since before you know it you will wind up with more drafts than the number of shells a Kel-Tec KSG can hold. Well, maybe not quite that ridiculous.

At one time or another everyone has had the thought “Well shotguns are nice and all, but what if we put more shells in it and also made it smaller?” If you haven’t had that thought then I’m afraid you are no friend of mine.

Magazine-fed arms like that tricked up Kalashnikov had capacity, but were still fairly large. Firearms like this have also been the subject of quite a few restrictions so they were hardly accessible. Luckily in 2011, Kel-Tec provided an answer.

The KSG is a bullpup, tube-fed, pump-action shotgun. The KSG’s main party trick is it’s duel-tube functionality. This means that this gun as two magazines that you can select from at the flip of a switch. This is how the standard KSG achieves its whopping 15 shell capacity. That’s 7+7+1 in the chamber for those not counting.

The capacity of the KSG is nice, but I also mentioned the want for something smaller too. Well the KSG provides an overall 26 inch length with an 18.5 inch barrel. A Mossberg 500 with the same barrel length comes in at 36-39 inches depending on model. (Editor’s note: I’m using Mossbergs as a comparison since they are what comes to mind when I think of a traditional pump-action shotgun. There is another reason that will make sense in a future blog.)

So the KSG is smaller than the average shotgun, with above average capacity. “But what if I want something even smaller?” You ask.

Luckily Kel-Tec is ahead of you on this one. The KSG Tactical is 4.5″ inches shorter than the standard model. It also has a smaller 10 shell capacity, not including 1 in the chamber. The Tactical requires a Short Barreled Shotgun tax stamp to own and is much more expensive than the standard model. The KSG Tactical would be right at home on a sling, with buckshot in one tube, and specialist rounds in the other. This model is hardly meant for the average consumer.

So the KSG Tactical is a bit smaller but not exactly accessible. If only there was an option that anyone could buy, but also made the most of the duel-tubes regardless of size. Well, you know how this goes.

Yes please.

Now for the real reason I’m writing this. I saw this advertisement in a magazine at an auto shop and haven’t stopped thinking about it since. So what does this thing of beauty have to offer?

The KSG-25 has, as you might guess, a monstrous 25 round capacity. This is done with a 12+12+1 configuration. Thanks to the bullpup design, the overall size of the gun comes in at 38 inches with a massive 30.5 inch barrel. I can’t even think of something to compare that barrel length to! Best of all, this is still compact! The closest thing I could find from Mossberg was the 500 with a 28 inch barrel and a 47-48 inch length depending on the specific model.

The KSG-25 is about as much gun as you can get before you start getting into cannon territory. Except that it already does. As a 12 gauge you are limited in what you can fire, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t options. 12 gauge shotguns are capable of accepting specialist cartridges and pump-action models do that particularly well. With the KSG-25 you can have 12 shots of your favorite lead for bringing the pain and another 12 shots of beanbags for bringing slightly less pain. Or while you’re burning money you can fill both magazines with Dragon’s Breath shells and recklessly waste money in style. Guns are expensive and ammo isn’t cheap. In the case of the KSG-25, keeping this gun filled would prove particularly expensive. Especially if you decide to take advantage of specialist cartridges.

Overall, the Kel-Tec KSG offers a way to have capacity, versatility, and a compact stature all in one package. The KSG’s variants all have their niche, but all have good potential in their respective areas. The cost compared to a conventional shotgun is very high, but the KSG fills a specific niche with a lot to offer. What more could you ask for?

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January 6

A Rundown of Mamod/MSS Locomotive Burners and Fuels

When it comes to Mamod-style live steam locomotives you are spoiled for choice with aftermarket parts. The sky is the limit for customization but you are often better off starting down low. The burner is one of the defining characteristics of your locomotive. Some fuels are harder than others to find. Some fuels are safer than others. But which one is best for you?

As standard, these locos come with a solid fuel tray that takes hexamine tablets. These are infamously terrible in pretty much every way. They have to be cut in half prior to use, they don’t burn consistently, and they smell bad. People have had problems with this fuel since this design was first released over 40 years ago. On top of the poor performance the solid fuel tablets are expensive. Plus they are harder to find in this country. Changing out from the stock burner is pretty much mandatory if you want to make the most of your locomotive.

The next option would be a methylated spirits burner. In the United States methylated spirits is actually very easy to come by, its just under a different name. Denatured alcohol is the same as methylated spirits except for the name. Denatured alcohol is very easy to get, reasonably cheap, and burns very consistently. Alcohol burners are built to run out of fuel just before the boiler runs out of water, which means that you do not have to worry about accidentally damaging your boiler. But denatured alcohol has its downsides.

Denatured alcohol is the least safe of the possible fuel options. The flames are difficult to see in sunlight, making it hard to tell whether the fire is lit. The burner has to remain upright or fuel will spill from the wicks and tank vent.  Denatured alcohol is also prone to flash fires, meaning you have to be exceptionally careful with it and watch for spills.

Image from dreamsteam.co.uk

The final main option is a ceramic burner. These run on either butane or a 70/30 butane-propane mix. This fuel is fairly easy to get and is about as common as denatured alcohol. The main downside is that this burner is more expensive than the previous option.  Ceramic burners are also much more fragile, so you need to be very careful with them. The final major issue with these burners is that they usually need to be paired with a silver-soldered boiler. It is very easy for these burners to melt the soft solder on a standard boiler. Ceramic burners have their downsides, but they have some good points too.

Ceramic burners generally have much cheaper fuel overall. They also have a much more controlled burn compared to other burners since you can directly control the gas. This allows for much better control over how fast steam builds and a higher potential steam pressure. With the correct upgrades a Mamod or MSS loco can run at 40 psi, as opposed to the standard 10 psi. Finally, ceramic gas burners are much safer than the previous options. If the locomotive is tipped over while running there is no possibility for a fuel spill.

I would be remiss if I did not mention a few of the other possibilities for burners. For starters you can use other fuel in the stock burner tray. Some people have supposedly had good results from using Sterno gel fuel as a substitute. It burns clean and is easier to find than hexamine, but leaves a film in the burner tray. Some people have also made solid fuel out of a combination of dryer lint, candle wax, and some other odds and ends. It works in a pinch but is not clean burning. Your loco will need cleaning after every use.

Finally, there is the possibility of a coal burning engine. This is not available as a kit and much be custom fabricated. This involves building an entirely different type of boiler and quite a lot of custom work. If you really want a coal fired Mamod or MSS, it is possible. If you want to know more about coal fired Mamods, you can read more here.

Overall there are plenty of options for firing a Mamod or MSS locomotive. Personally I use an alcohol burner since fuel and wicks are easily available, but there are options for everyone. A new burner is a great starting point for customizing your engine, but what comes next is a blog for another time.

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January 5

Compounded Steam Oils and Where to Find Them

I expected small scale live steam locomotives to have their trickier points. After all, you are essentially letting a kettle and stove run around in circles until one of them runs empty. But it turns out that is the easy part. The real hard part is getting oil for the thing.

To keep an engine in good working order you need proper lubrication, steam engines are no different. Unlike other engines, steam engines require something called “Compounded” oil. Compounded oil is oil that has been mixed with tallow (aka animal fat). The tallow allows for emulsification with water, but keeps the oil from being negatively effected. This makes compounded oil effective in environments with water or steam.

The problem with compounded oil is that it is hard to get in small quantities in the United State. Most manufacturers only offer it in large drums. The other option in this country is Wilesco oil. This is only available on two websites that I could find, one of which is E bay. The other option I have found is shopanatomical.com. This is primarily a medical science website, but they happen to have some odds and ends for steam engines.

This is where this blog has fallen by the wayside a bit. I was going to do a segment about how ordering internationally comes out a bit cheaper than ordering from a US option, until I realized my mistake. While redoing the math for this blog I realized that I misread the quantity of the Wilesco oil as 50ml rather than 5 oz. To keep this brief, Shop Anatomical does have the best deal for small orders of compounded oil. However, they only have one option.

Shop Anatomical only has one option for oil, and I am not entirely sure about it. The Wilesco oil seems to be a general use oil for small scale live steam engines. I cannot find specifics on the weight of the oil, but 460 weight seems to be a safe bet since that is relatively common. It should be fine for most small scale uses, but this is still worth noting.

In the United States there are only a few options for getting steam oil, but there are options elsewhere. dreamsteam.co.uk is a solid place for getting live steam locomotives and parts internationally. Even with not being as good of a deal because of shipping, they are still a viable option. They offer larger bottles of oil and have multiple weights available. You know exactly what weight and quantity of oil you are looking from the beginning on this website. There is no guessing like with the Wilesco offering. There are plenty of other international websites, but there are few that will ship to the United States.

Getting compounded steam oil can be a massive pain at first, but there are options out there. Luckily that is the hardest thing to find with small scale live steam. Other important consumables like fuel can by much easier to come by. But that is a blog for another time.

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January 5

Afterburners and an Intro to Two-Stage Conversions

If there is one running theme in the Nerf modding community, it is the quest for power. One way or another most blasters can be outfitted to hit like a truck. But individually modding each blaster takes a lot of time, if only there was a way to easily add power to any blaster with a barrel lug. Enter the Afterburner.

Afterburners can be an effective catch-all method of adding power to most blasters. To try to put this simply; you are essentially putting a second blaster on your barrel, and firing every shot twice. Allow me to explain.

The diagram above is an example of a stock flywheel powered blaster coupled to an afterburner. When you fire the dart is pushed through a set of flywheels and brought up to speed. Stock blasters usually hit about 65 feet per second with normal motors and batteries. In this case the Afterburner is a second set of flywheels. The initial power source for the dart can change depending on the model. When the dart gets to the second set of motors, it gets a boost in power.

The power boost you get depends on the initial velocity of the dart relative to what the Afterburner is capable of. If your base power is greater that what the Afterburner can output, you will lose velocity. If the base power of the blaster is less than or equal to the power of the Afterburner, then you will get a boost. In the case of equal power, the output is roughly doubled. (Ex: If both flywheel cages are capable of 70 fps on their own. When put inline they can output 130-145 fps, depending on other conditions)

The spacing of the Afterburner relative to the original power source can also have an effect on performance. Longer barrels allow the dart to slow down before getting boosted, which hurts overall performance. Ideally the initial power source and second flywheel cage are right after each other to prevent the dart from slowing down. But this is harder with removable Afterburners.

Two-Stage conversions and blasters offer better performance in this situation. Two-Stage blasters are like Afterburners in the way they work, but differ in that they are integrated into an individual blaster. Three-Stage blasters have been done but at 3 flywheel cages you start to see diminishing returns of power.

Two-Stage blasters are particularly interesting as Bullpup blasters. With the right integration one can make very powerful, compact, shoulder-able blasters with Bullpups. But that is a blog for another time.

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January 4

Rom Hack – Super Mario 64 Chaos Edition

Some time ago I talked briefly about ROM hacks in a blog talking about emulators. ROM hacks are an incredible creative medium for aspiring developers, as well as a content goldmine for players. With a bit of digging you can find anything from satisfying new stories to meatier challenges for experienced players. What about the people that enjoy banging their head against the wall?

It turns out that this niche is filled in the form of Super Mario 64 Chaos Edition. At some point a few years ago the content creator Kaze Emanuar came up with the Chaos Edition hack. The way it works is simple on paper. The base game is unchanged in terms of map design, but a variety of effects are applied at random. This ranges from graphics, to gravity, to controls. The full list of effects can be found here.

What isn’t simple is how this translates to the game. The effects applied can be more than one at a time, the most I have ever been able to count at once is 6. But I would not be surprised if there could be more at once. This could make for a nice fun time with just moon gravity applied. Or you could be a signpost that can’t turn left running around in corrupted texture hell while Mario sings you a jaunty tune and also coins are now exploding ghosts. Either scenario is not an exaggeration either, Super Mario 64 Chaos Edition can go from 0-100 out of nowhere.

Before writing this I took a few minutes to give Chaos Edition another shot and refresh my memory. Once I had the game up and running everything seemed a bit calmer than I remembered. I was able to get all the way into a level with nothing happening.

Never mind.

Chaos Edition’s true colors started to shine through the moment I let my guard down. The game was in full chaos swing out of nowhere and I was just along for the ride. What are you even supposed to do when the entire map is flipping out?

After a few minutes of pain, I moved over to Bob-omb Battlefield. The situation there was a bit more manageable. The only problem at first was some odd gravity and exploding Goombas.

That calm hardly lasted. Most of my time in the level looked more like this.

This was still more manageable than the previous stage I had tried. Even with the camera in another zip code and sideways, I still nearly managed to beat Footrace with Koopa the Quick.

 

At the end of the race every object in the level came to me all at once. This messed up the spawn of the Power Star and soft-locked the game. At that point my refresher on Super Mario 64 Chaos Edition was over.

 

Super Mario 64 Chaos Edition can be a thrill to play. This ROM hack can be brutal to try to beat a few challenges casually. However, there are people that have collected all 120 stars in the game. That alone is a feat in itself, but there are people that speedrun Super Mario 64 Chaos Edition! This hack is well worth checking out whether you are a casual player looking for a laugh, or a hardened player looking for a challenge. Everything you need to know about getting this hack can be found on Kaze Emanuar’s YouTube Channel.

While you are at his channel, you can also take a look at some other hacks he has come up with. There are a lot of really good Super Mario 64 hacks that are a lot of fun. If you want more chaos, Emanuar has also done a chaos edition for The Legend of Zelda Ocarina of Time. But that is a blog for another time.

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December 31

Platform Overview – Nerf Hammershot

Maybe this should be a retrospective, but this is still fairly recent history. Not that it matters, old favorites die hard.

A while back the Hammershot was a darling of the Nerf modding community. You couldn’t go a day without seeing another Hammershot build online for some time. But what made it so special?

The answer is in the name, Hammershot. It was one of a few hammer-action blasters to come out around the time of its release. Unlike the smaller Doublestrike or bulkier Lawbringer, the Hammershot was a solid balance of size, capacity, and comfort. The hammer action meant that the Hammershot was one of the few spring-powered blasters that could be shot one-handed. Better yet, they could be dual wielded.

The modding community ate these blasters up. With the advent of 3d printing around the same time aftermarket parts flooded online stores. The below average 5 dart capacity could be brought up to 8 with an aftermarket cylinder. Barrel and body kits were made available in massive variety. Even the power limitations with the hammer action were soon sorted out, albeit with steel parts.

So how did something like this fall out of the limelight?

Well, over time people exhausted just about every new idea for this blaster. Shortly after the Hammershot went out of production and they became much less common. By the time the Hammershot’s popularity started to fade, the Rival line had been introduced.

Anymore the newer Kronos model is the secondary blaster of choice for people that want a springer. Even with minimal mods the Kronos dwarfs the Hammershot in power. But that is a blog for another time.

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December 31

Momentum Wagons – Taming Steam Engines

As mentioned in the MSS Side Tank Engine post, the old Mamod designs for locomotives have a reputation for running away. This is a problem with a lot of live steam engines but the Mamod design is particularly infamous for this quirk. There are a wide variety of fixes for this problem such as more consistent burners and better steam regulators. There are even “Slo-mo” devices that fit to a locomotive to keep speed in check. But that is an engine specific fix, what some people need is an interchangeable solution. Enter the KIKKERLAND Zecar!

Wait, that looks nothing like a something you would use for a train.

Well it normally wouldn’t be, but allow me to explain. This toy uses a friction engine to keep momentum when pushed. This is accomplished with a large flywheel in the middle that stores inertia, which is geared up relative to the wheels. This particular unit is just the right size to have its wheels changed out for Gauge 1 (45mm) track, and with further tweaks it can run on O Gauge (32mm) track.

But if you are trying to keep engines from running too fast, wouldn’t storing inertia be a bad thing? Well, no actually it is not. The friction engine from the Zecar overall limits top speed. But that stored inertia can help prevent engines from running away. A common issue with live steam locomotives is that they tend to slow down or stall in corners, build up steam pressure, then rocket off at speed. The momentum from a unit like this keeps the engine moving and prevents a pressure buildup.

With the right adjustments the Zecar can be converted into a cheap and effective momentum van to regulate locomotive speed. This idea specific idea has been floating around since 2015 and has seen numerous variations. The first one was built by Zach Bond and I would highly recommend reading this article about it.

At £20.00 on Amazon, the Zecar would be reasonably cheap in the UK. Unfortunately I am not in the UK! But with the knowledge of how these momentum vans work, I can start keeping an eye out for a US equivalent. But that is a blog for another day.

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December 31

A Retrospective on Emulators and Pokemon ROMs

Picture this:

It’s 20xx, old games are getting harder to find, and the prices are skyrocketing. One day a friend says to you “You know you can get that for free, right?” They go on to explain this odd new thing called an “Emulator.” A few hours later your computer is being eaten alive by all the viruses you’ve just installed, but it doesn’t matter. You have a free copy of Pokemon.

It was always Pokemon too. If ever there was a game worth downloading: that was it. By the time emulators picked up the internal batteries of the first 3 generations of games were starting to run out. This meant that you were liable to lose your progress if you didn’t gut the cartridge and replace the battery before playing at all. Most people were not up for that.

What a lot of people also weren’t up for was the price. Pokemon games have always held their value pretty well, so the cheapest they ever get is around $15 in questionable condition. Most people I knew didn’t bother trying to buy the other titles, they just emulated them. Why wouldn’t you?

Once you knew what to look for, getting ROMs of old titles was easy and (mostly) risk free. Everyone started with Pokemon, that is just what you did. But once you knew what to do there was a world of games available to you. Plus this was a lot of people’s first experience to ROM hacks.

ROM hacks were weird. The most notable ones were for, as you might expect, Pokemon. New stories, new maps, parodies, randomizers. ROM hacks made up entire new games for free! It was unlike anything you see anymore. Of course this is because of how defensive the company clad in red is over their copyright. A few years ago most Pokemon ROMs were sandblasted off the internet before the release of a game most people don’t care about anymore.

Then again the company in question was technically in the right when they angered a massive chunk of their target audience for no profit. After all, distribution of ROMs is technically illegal. As a responsible adult I cannot advocate for such activity. So I’m going to tell you exactly what to look for so you don’t accidentally download any of these nasty files.

Whatever you do, do not go on a website such as emuparadise.me for reliable and safe access to emulators and ROMs. Especially make sure that you avoid any ROMs marked with “(trashman)”, these are exceptionally good quality and should be avoided at all costs. Finally, if you are ever in doubt on how to avoid these heinous files, there are plenty of forums and Sub-Reddits that tell you where to find ROMs. So you can avoid them, obviously.

At some point this blog became focused on Pokemon ROMs in particular. As I mentioned earlier there is a world of games out there if you look around (not that I would recommend doing so). There are also a ton of amazing ROM hacks for other games that I haven’t covered. But I suppose that is a blog for another time.

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December 30

Platform Overview – MSS Side Tank Loco Kit

If someone had told me as a kid that I could build my very own steam engine, I probably would have believed them. Granted, I was pretty gullible, but I wouldn’t have been any less excited. Here I am now with a stupid grin on my face. This is the MSS Side Tank Loco, and it’s a dream come true.

So what exactly is this engine? Long story short it’s a steam engine, but tiny. For reference the boiler is about the diameter of a pocket-sized can of WD40 or one of the extra small cans of soda, but twice as long. Buffer to Buffer this loco is 8 1/2 inches long, and just short of 3 inches wide. Compared live steam engines normally found in the US this thing is tiny!

If the styling of the loco wasn’t a dead giveaway, then that last sentence would have been. This engine is an imported model from the United Kingdom. For whatever reason small scale live steam engines never caught on in the US. The smallest you will usually find is 3 1/2 inch gauge models. (gauge is just the width of the track.) O Gauge engines are very popular in the US but live steam in that size just never caught on. So this model is an oddity here.

Styling wise the MSS is a bit strange, as it is not based on aF particular engine. The closest prototypes would be Welsh narrow gauge locomotives, but no particular engine is a perfect match. The design of the MSS Side Tank actually goes all the way back to 1979 with the Mamod Sl1. There are few differences with these models other than namesake, the option of a diamond shaped chimney on the SL1, and the exhaust pipe. These models are so similar that parts are completely interchangeable.

As far as individual parts go, there are some standouts. The MSS features double-acting pistons. This means that the pistons provide power on every stroke in either direction. This was uncommon when the design first cropped up, and is still a nice touch today. Another curious thing with the pistons is that they are oscillating. This is incredibly rare on steam locomotives, model or not. This eliminates the need for valve gear but tends to hurt efficiency. The oscillating pistons make for a cool curiosity but takes away from the model’s  (relative) accuracy. Finally, as one last feather in this model’s cap, the steam dome is functional.

Of course with this model you get intimately familiar with every piece of the engine. This unit is kit built, meaning you get a box of bits and some instructions. Beyond that the rest is up to you. There are pre-built units available, but that’s no fun. This loco is in that sweet spot of simple to understand but hard enough to be fun to assemble. After assembling this kit, there is the matter of running in.

Running the Side Tank Engine is an exercise in patience. First you need to check that everything is working correctly. Does the safety valve work? Will the whistle stick? Is the burner on the whole way? There are all kinds of little things that need checked. Then comes oiling all the moving parts. Next the boiler needs to be filled just right. Then the denatured alcohol burner needs to be filled perfectly, and carefully. (note: the MSS engines come with solid fuel burners, but a burner change is almost mandatory if you want to be able to get fuel in this country) Any spilled fuel could turn into a flash fire in a heartbeat. After all of that the fire can be lit and the 5 minute wait for the water to boil can begin. Once the engine has reached at least 7 psi (it maxes at 10 psi) then you can start running it… for about 15 minutes. That time is assuming you don’t stop partway through the run to re-oil like the manual suggests. With a dead-leg oiler upgrade you could run for the entire 15 minutes with no interruptions.

While running these locos you are always in for a show, for better or worse. When run for the first few times steam engines need time to settle in. Water and steam will leak a bit for the first few runs before the engine is finally run-in. After being run-in the MSS will purr like a kitten while running, albeit an energetic one.  Ever since the early 80’s this design has had a reputation for running away when on the tracks, and the MSS Side Tank Engines are no different. These engines just don’t do “slow.” The weird regulator/reverser block that controls these engines just is not built for it.

A slow engine is a very big deal to people that are into model railroading. A model like a Mamod or MSS poses a challenge for modelers. How do you tame an engine that just wants to run away? That is a blog for another time.

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December 29

My Abandonware – A Retro Goldmine

Some software is less fortunate than others. There are a lot of games that eventually stop being supported by the developers and, unless that developer’s name begins with “N” and ends in “tendo”, copyright violations are no longer monitored. This is when software enters the realm of Abandonware. Fire up that antivirus software, this can get messy!

Maybe the antivirus comment is an overstatement but it never hurts to be too careful. Sites such as myabandonware.com make it pretty safe to look around for stuff like this. A solid Antivirus software can have your back but its better to never take that chance in the first place. Abandon ware is not an Emulator, it is the original software. You may need other files to get this stuff running. If you are ever in doubt about whether a website is safe, there are plenty of forums and sub-Reddits out there to tell you whats what. Now that the precautions are out of the way, let’s see what Abandonware has to offer.

Overall there is an insane variety of games that are available. A lot of games are very old, going back to the Apple 2, Commodore 64, and older. But there is also a lot of newer games such as The Sims, Need for Speed, and The Simpsons – Hit and Run. The last one has a notable cult-following with an active modding community. Even the first two Fallout games were Abandonware until very recently. While there are plenty of options, how do you get them running?

Work, lots of work is what it takes to get these games to run. As I said earlier, these are not Emulators. These games have to be installed properly, and in some cases registered (sort of). Emulators are way easier to get running, but tend to suffer in performance. You can get around some work by emulating the console version of a game, but its never the same.

What you need to get most Abandonware running is two things; Daemon Tools, and something for .Zip files. An unregistered copy of WinRAR fits the theme of what we’re doing but anything will do. Daemon Tools is a program for making digital disk drives. This is for installing the “disks” that contain the game files. (As a side note; Daemon Tools also comes with an antivirus software that is allegedly very good, but difficult to set up. You can opt-out of the antivirus in the installer.)

Using your .Zip program and Daemon tools you can install Abandonware games almost as if they are brand new. After they are installed, is the matter of “registration.” This can be done by tweaking game files yourself since nothing is restricted in these games. Or you can just grab a “No CD Exe” file online. These aren’t hard to find and simply get tossed into the game files. This new file is your new launcher button for your game of choice. But the game is not ready yet!

Finally, you need to run compatibility settings. You can find this by right-clicking on the game launcher and clicking “Troubleshoot compatibility.” Just select the OS the game originally was released on and it should run. If it doesn’t run then simply keep trying versions until you get the right one.

Overall getting Abandonware running is that easy! I’m kidding obviously, getting this stuff running is pretty involved. Everything I have written so far has been simplified to a degree. But if you are willing to put in the work, Abandonware offers a free way to experience old games that run just as well if not better than when they were new.

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